San Juan de Gaztelugatxe A beautiful solo hike on Wednesday November 07th, 2012

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I woke up blissfully with my memory foam pillow.  I’m a little too warm.  Opening a window and letting the cold in, I realize we have a new or old president today and there is a life over the ocean I still had.   Far removed from political rhetoric, I decide I must know and google it…..yes!  I also realize outside the window is a good place to put my beer, it is chilly!  I’m not very politically involved but feel the outcome while far (far) from perfect is the best.  Okay, done with that!!  This place offers a free breakfast and that’s my next move!

I want to visit the Nature Reserve next to this town and San Juan de Gaztelugatxe…..a peninsula overlooking the Atlantic; it wins out.  While it rained over night, the day clears nicely.  I drive through small towns and forests and feel great, something about the forest and great outdoors gives me solace.  I make it to the peninsula that has lots of eucalyptus on the hillsides, along with pines and ferns.   I get some sun for my steep hike down the hill and then up the almost 300 stairs to the chapel overlooking the ocean, the views are spectacular and I bask in the sun until it starts to get chilly.  There is a bell to ring once at the chapel honoring John the Baptist.  I ring six times for the special people in my life…..I have to cut it off or I’d be ringing a lot!  There is a sign “WC” for water closet and it is a simple hole with the drainage going straight into the ocean below!!  There is also a nice rock enclosed space to have a picnic and fire out of the wind and rain.  The hike is surprisingly not difficult, I am pleased with myself for making it easily without burning legs, my biking has paid off!   A Spanish couple stop me in the parking lot to inquire about the hike; I am getting use to talking to people although I know there will be some gaps!  This time the guy turns to his lady and she understands and speaks a bit of English!  It’s just a crap shoot when I’ll be able to understand or be understood!

I want to avoid the tolls roads that I seem to get on to a lot, one costing me 11.25 euros!  So I chose another country route home and am pleased to go thru another limestone, granite mountains range in Urriolalo Natural Park.  Again, a mountain outside of the town has a terraced and harvested quarry for Spain’s road and buildings.   My attempt at avoiding toll roads is for naught, I hit one anyway but am pleased with only a .93 cent tariff.

A mellow peaceful beautiful day hiking and enjoying the views….

I hear France calling……

 

Continued Solo trip with no agenda, save introspection in Northern Spain…..Tuesday November 06, 2012

The sounds of the city waft into my room and sleep is restless for me; I don’t get good shut-eye until after 2:30.   I still want to get up early to walk and manage a 7:3ish wake up.  Up and out by 8:30 I head to the town center…. Having been mixed up yesterday I head in the opposite direction along the Nervion river;  but go downriver instead of up, dang it wrong again, I do realize it this time and easily correct the 1/2 mile detour out of the way…..I walk along the riverside as the receptionist suggests to me last night.   I am expecting a mellow river bank and a nice bike/walking path, trees and lawn area…… my minds thinks; like Eugene on the Willamette river in Oregon …..well, this river is contained; fortified with large verticals rock (limestone?) walls.  Ah, the city.  Complete with city ‘stuff’, relatively clean in public areas, yet a bit of neglect from walking dog owners, gotta watch your step.  Ten to fifteen minutes later I get to the icon of the city, the silver abstract huge Museum Guggenheim, one of four in the world I hear.  There is a bronze spider matching in dimension, maybe 50 feet tall.  On the street side of the building an equally huge topiary of a puppy sitting, shaped with flowers, mostly pansies.   In between this and many stairs is a water fountain feature.    It is rhythmic and changes as if to a beat but there is no music.  Reminiscent to me of the Bellagio water fountain in Vegas, just a bit smaller version,  hard to do it up better than Vegas!!   It is very nice though!  I walk over the river on The Zubizuri, (Basque for ‘white bridge’), a white tied arch suspension footbridge across the river.  It’s a gorgeous sweeping bridge with its white wires stringed from arch to foundation.  On my walk back over the bridge  I hear an accordion, playing music very fitting for the morning, perfect.  Another bridge yields a flute player.  Ah, the city…..

It was easy to spend my morning walking the city and I even find the gothic church, see many fountains the park and the closed museum.  Julie Roberts is on many 6 foot posters advertising,  (something!).  Although I am far away, America’s influence seems close at times.

I return to my two star clean hotel room with the magic marker numbers on the rooms and the motion activated hallway lights that I now realize are common in the hallways.  I like that idea a lot.

After a quick shower and a booking to my next hotel south of here near the Gorbea  Nature Reserve I am off.  I am primed to see the Atlantic Ocean in the north of Spain an original destination four days ago.   I set the GPS  to a place nearby and then go off satellite and keep driving west, thru odd streets and neighborhoods I figure I’ve got to run into it!!    I finally do.  I can’t help but smile as the magnificent Atlantic before me, with wonderful cliffs and ocean-going ships docked off shore.   There is a cement/stone jetty lined with giant wind turbines.   The cliffs are steep, uplifted; in lined symmetry of limestone or sandstone, I guess.  Immediately I go off on a walk as I am so happy to see the ocean.  Climbing a hill I see four guys hooked up to their kites parasailing and eventually soaring in front of me catching wind currents.  They start and return to the same place dancing in the winds updrafts.  The clouds are billowy and make a great backdrop.

While, I love the greenery, I am dismayed to see the flora similar to California’s, with the dreaded noxious plants of gorse, blackberries and pompous grass!!  After kicking it on the cement benches, watching the guys soaring happily in their flight and basking in the intermittent sun, I set the GPS to my hotel, I am ready to kick it!  In early for once!  I book this room for three nights!   I just want to relax and take it easy now.  I was looking to check in early, yet no one is there; the pastry shop next door is closed as well.   I think it must be siesta time!   Had I bothered to read the sign out front I would’ve gotten in but no!; I assume I don’t know what it says and kill time by headed to a grocery store for bread.   Coming back they are still locked up tight when I pay closer attention to the sign and see it asks to call the number written down.  Paying attention and ‘trying’ to read it I understand!  Geez, that’s easy, a gentleman comes down (from his siesta?).   Hahaha….. And helps me.  It is a nice large clean room with a bidet!   Flat screen TV and complimentary breakfast!  Hotel Nagusi is 120€ for three nights.   I finally get an actual queen size bed instead of the usual two twins pushed together; what is it with that anyway??   The pillows are awesome, some sort of memory foam!   Ah, sometimes it’s the simple things, I am ready to wash the city off of me and hug nature.   It’s relax, write and read time.  I have brought two books, one I finished in Morocco ‘Prodigal Summer’ by Barbara Kingslover, a recommendation and Power vs. Force by David Hawkins.   So far I am very impressed with the latter.   In the car I am listening to the Four Agreements, by Dave Ruiz; enlightening listening, great for the trip.    Tomorrow back to the coast.  …..more later…..